Varanasi

Meaning

As the sun rises over the river at dawn, pilgrims descend the stone steps to bathe in the Ganges. Dozens of ghats line the water, first light spreading over the boats — and because to end one's life here is held to release the soul from the wheel of rebirth, people gather to this city where even life's end is holy. It is where life and death meet on one riverbank.

Set on the west bank of the Ganges, Varanasi is regarded as one of the oldest and holiest cities in India, also called Kashi (the city of light) and Banaras. On dozens of stone steps (ghats) leading down to the river, pilgrims bathe to purify themselves, and the temple of Kashi Vishwanath, dedicated to Shiva, stands at its heart. From of old it has been held that to die or be cremated here releases the soul from the wheel of rebirth into liberation (moksha) — so it is understood as a city where life and death meet in one place. It is widely known for the boats on the river at dawn and the Ganga Aarti, the lamp worship, at dusk.

Field notes

Location

On the Ganges · Uttar Pradesh, India · N25.3° · E83.0°

Best time

Early dawn as the sun rises over the river; dusk, when the lamp worship rises.

Getting there

Meet the river and the city at the ghats on the west bank of the Ganges; reached from Rishikesh, following the river across the plains.

Etiquette

A city where pilgrimage and funeral rites still go on; do not photograph the cremation ghats, and keep quiet and respectful.

Sources

• · Encyclopaedia Britannica: Varanasi
• · Wikipedia: Varanasi

Photographs are freely licensed works from Wikimedia Commons and similar sources; the author and license appear beneath each image.